50 in 50 #1: Massachusetts — Westport Rivers Winery


By Lenn Thompson
LENNDEVOURS

Westport Rivers
To kick off our vinological tour of the United States and its wine regions, we head to New England of all places — Westport, MA to be exact.

Westport Rivers  was founded in 1982 by Bob and Carol Russell, who bought an old dairy farm in Westport. Their oldest son, Rob, planted their first vines in 1986 — 40 acres of chardonnay, pinot noir and riesling. In the late 1990s the vineyard was expanded, now comprised of 80 acres of chardonnay, pinot noir, riesling, pinot meunier, rkatsitelli, pinot blanc and pinot gris. This 80-acre vineyard is now the largest in all of New England. The Russells’ second son, Bill, joined the team in 1989 as winemaker.

The Russell family’s vineyard falls within the Southeastern New England AVA, which stretches from Hyannis, Massachusetts through Rhode Island, to New London, Connecticut, and reaches only 15 miles inland and includes Martha’s Vineyard and Nantucket.

While they produce still white and rose wines, Westport Rivers’ real focus is sparkling wine, so that’s what I focused on as well, tasting three of their bubbly bottlings. One of the bottles was corked, so we’ll just talk about the other two.

As excited as I was when I announced this project (and I still am)
you just never know what the wines are going to taste like. Let’s just
say that my fears washed right down the river — Westport River.

First, we uncorked Westport Rivers 2000 Imperial Sec ($23), a medium-light yellow sparkling wine with a fine bead and quickly dissipating head. Made of 100% riesling grapes, this sparkler’s nose is dominated by sweet apple and lightly floral aromas with just a little yeasty-toastiness. The palate is absolutely mouthwateringly fruity with sweet-tart apple flavors and a lightly creamy mouthfeel on the tart finish. 280 cases were produced.

As noted above, one bottle was corked, Westport Rivers 1999 Blanc de Noirs ($23). It’s a pretty salmon color and I hope to get my hands on another bottle. 350 cases were produced.

Last, and far from least, was a bottle of Westport Rivers 2001 Brut Cuvee RJR ($20), a truly delicious value in traditionally made sparkling wine.

Medium-light straw yellow with a persistent mousse and fine bead, the nose offers apple and pear fruit layered with nice yeasty character one finds in quality Champagne and subtle mineral notes. Mouthfilling flavors of apple and fresh biscuits greet the palate with slightly creamy texture,  delightful acidity and fresh citrus on the finish. Made from 63% pinot noir and 27% chardonnay.

My wife, Nena, usually tastes with me but doesn’t pour a glass afterwards. She did with this wine — it blew us both away. Awesome value.

Currently, Westport Rivers can ship wines to MA, RI, CA, CO, HI, ID, IL, IA, MN, MO, NM, OR, WA, WV, WI, AK and TX. But, as you probably know, these laws change all the time.

Visit their website or online store for more information and to buy wine.

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Reader Comments

Hey Lenn, I’m going to Alaska in September, so I’ll nab a bottle for you…

Lenn, did you notice any family resemblances between the Westport wines and those from the North Fork? I am curious to know if there is a hint of common terroir there.

BTW, as someone from Massachusetts, who has also lived in RI and CT, I am sort of stunned that New England is able to grow vinifera grapes at all. We were always led to believe that it was just too cold in winter. And no one I knew who wasn’t Italian or Greek drank much wine, except for that nasty bit of sutff on Sundays.

Cool stuff.

You’re much kinder to our local winery than I am, Lenn. We live about 40 miles from Westport and have made a few trips there in conjunction with a visit to Sakonnet (in RI.) Let’s just say I wouldn’t use Westport sparkling to toast at my wedding. Why do we still go, you ask? Because we like to support local growers and because we are eternal optimists. We’ve seen improvement, so perhaps we’ll post a favorable write up on our blog next visit.